Tank installation

Many thanks to Derek Potter, who wrote and told us about how he installed his Master Blaster in his tank:

I wrote on the 30th of November regarding a purchase of a gas turbine sound for a tank and you wanted to know how I was going to do it. 

My original idea was to fit the sound unit in a tight-fitting box with tubes coming out and connected to silicone tube leading to the exhausts of the tank, but as the hull was made I found it gave me very little space, this idea wasn't practical. 

The exhausts are in place. I have used copper 90 degree bends as for plumbing, which point downwards into the tank. The unit sits in a special holder machined on the lathe so it won't fall over and the exhaust extensions are just above it. 

As the tank is static, access is achieved by removing the hatch at the back to switch the unit on, and just leave it loose to switch off again. Ideally it would be better to leave in permanently but it can't be switched on from outside. The sound is impressive. As it starts up the noise is quite loud as it comes from the exhausts although the tank being hollow inside does help a bit. The photo on the left shows the hatch removed for access as you can't see it because the turret when in its forward position covers that part. 

The other photos of the finished tank just waiting to be painted.  The overall length is 26”, width  9”, and height 8”.  The tank weighs in at 11 kilos, constructed from brass and aluminium. 

I have looked at the next plan which will be a quarry truck but will be made from wood, and will see if a sound device can be fitted also but this time a diesel engine or get a new card for the unit I have and interchange them.

 

Derek emailed us again with a detailed description of his method for fitting his Master Blaster to his tank, plus some great photos of the finished article:

  1. Solder brass base to axle tube at 90 degrees. Drill two holes to correspond with the aluminium plate.
  2. Solder two 6BA nuts to base of brass plate.
  3. File piece of brass smooth either side. Drill one end and bend at right angles. Carefully mould brass strip around Master Blaster. Bend at right angles (slightly shorter, so that when tightened it will pull tight around unit).
  4. Machine aluminium square.
  5. Measure height required. Cut to length just below deck.
  6. Mark where it will fit on aluminium base.
  7. Mark where switch is and cut with milling cutter. Slot so that copper extension with slide smoothly up and down. The copper piece should be 1/16" proud of the aluminium.
  8. With Master Blaster held in place away from tank with brass strap, mark aluminium base and drill for bolts. Countersink for bolt heads.
  9. With unit still clamped in place, put brass strip in place with new hole drilled in. Use clamp to hold in place. Drill pilot holes, remove clamp, and drill aluminium piece.
  10. Thread with 6BA tap.
  11. Attach to base.
  12. Work out height of brass strip. Cut 3/4" above hatch cover.
  13. Turn an oil drum or similar from beach. Drill a hole to allow entry. This hole will hide the switch.
  14. Fit base to inside of tank. Screw up tightly. Refit hatch with switch sticking out.

Well done Derek! We think your modelling skills are out of this world and are very honoured you have spent so much time and effort turning a metal fitting and access point to accommodate our Master Blaster. Derek's fine work just shows that, with a little ingenuity, anything is possible and we are glad he has chosen to use our product to enhance his. Nice work!